Looking for America - A Listening Tour

US 30 W, US 101, US 26 A two hour ride to the BMW dealer outside of Portland, OR.  There are two ways from Astoria to Portland: US 30 to I-5 S along the scenic Columbia River.  I decided on US 30 to US 26 E through Clatsop and Tillamook State Forests; an amazing ride - my last mountain drive on this trip.  My last hurrah. The plan was to take my bike to the dealer to have shipped to Florida.  I was then going to sit in PDX for 9 hours for my red-eye flight to Ft. Lauderdale.  At 2 pm I beckoned for an UBER to the airport.  Lisa, the driver, picked me up and we immediately engaged in conversation.  I told her of my feat and how I was about to sit for 9 hours at PDX.  I asked if she was hungry, since it was lunch time.  She took me to the food trucks in downtown Portland where I bought my UBER driver lunch,. She then offered to show me the sights around Portland.  She was retired so she had time and no schedule.  Lisa took m...

Ferry from Seattle, WA to Bremerton, WA.  Hwy 3 W and US 101 S to Astoria, OR where I will spend the night before taking my motorcycle to the BMW dealer in Portland - a short jaunt from Astoria.  I made arrangements for a shipper to pick up my bike and deliver it to the dealer in Ft. Lauderdale, FL.  I purchased an airline ticket from Portland, OR to Ft. Lauderdale, FL - the red-eye  leaving tomorrow night (Tuesday) and arriving on Wednesday morning. Crossing the Columbia River, a 4+ mile bridge from Washington State, I landed in Astoria, OR. View of 4.2 Mile Bridge From Washington State to Oregon I am now seated at a table at the Urban Cafe on the main drag - drinking tons of coffee.  Sitting on the ferry, I thought about all my experiences I have had on this trip: all the people I met, the riding challenges, the places I stayed, the different spirits of place I experienced, the general attitude of the people, the conversations, the natural beauty, th...

I-90 from Spokane to Seattle Between Spokane and the Cascade Mountains lie high rolling plains, lakes, and vast farms growing potatoes, wheat, and rapeseed.  Bright yellow blossoms cover acres contrasting to a bright blue sky.  Off in the distance white capped mountains can be seen - a promise of things yet to come.  As I neared the mountains, a strong cross-wind was blowing me around quite a bit.  Ascending the cascades, the hills were cutting off the ferosity of  the winds.  Overcast and cooler now, the traffic increased as I approached Snoqualmie Pass - that would descend into Seattle.  My motorcycle challenge almost at an end - victory was only about 20 miles away. It was Saturday so I had hoped for less traffic.  The stress of  coming into Seattle, through tunnels and highway configurations that did everything it could to make sure that I missed the correct exit.  Once off the freeway, I had to contend with steep hills and troll...

US 93 S to US 2 W to Hwy 56 S to US 200 W back to US 2 W Leaving Whitefish in heavy fog, had breakfast and headed toward US 2.  I refused to put on rain gear in spite of the dreary nature of the sky.  Only a t-shirt and my protective jacket, within 2 miles the sky was clear.  Wow - I know what Moses must have felt at the parting of the Red Sea (err: Reed Sea - look it up).  It was now warm and I was dressed appropriately. I stopped in Libby, MT for gas.  I looked across the street and there was this nice little coffee/gift shop.  There I met the 78 year old owners: Bill and Carol Cady.  Bill is a retired Highway Patrol officer who informed me to take Hwy 56 down to US 200 for the views.  "But watch out for the deer.  Don't drive over 55 just in case you hit one."  Encouraging, right!  Carol plays the mandolin with a small music group.  So, I whipped out my album on iTunes - Bill wants me to send him the songs since they are...

This bonus blog will cover what, to me, are important people that escaped previous mention, as well as write about the attraction of riding motorcycles.  Most people really just look at motorcycles as dangerous and they just cannot understand the attraction.  I have gone about 4300 miles on my journey, so I think I can speak to that issue. You remember Stephanie (Scott Culp's daughter who lives in Whitefish).  She has a ranch where she owns quarter horses, and takes pleasure at her three dogs running in the tall grass.  Stephanie also works as a realtor in the area.  She told me that the horses stay outside all year long; if it gets super cold, they blanket them.  The hair on the horses become thick and long, only to shed in the spring and summer.  Over dinner at Stillwater Fish House, we discussed animal psychology.  While each individual animal is different, there are some constants: horses can tell what a particular human feels about th...

Three nights, not two, in Whitefish - a perfect mountain town to take it easy, do laundry, clean the bike, and get to know people in town. Slept for 12 hours last night.  I crashed after my long mountain ride in Glacier, and my two drinks and dinner at Tupelo Grille.  I woke up in my clothes and hotel room blinds open at about 11 pm, then got under the covers and slept all night.  From 7:00 pm to 7 am. Took my bike to Buffalo Cafe for breakfast.  I sat next to Giles and Wynoma, people in their late 70s about their life.  They had lived here in Whitefish, but have since moved to the area from which they came: near St. Louis.  Giles had been a ski and mountain climbing instructor.  Very nice people. I then went back to the hotel and sorted out what I no longer need on the trip (and items I should have never brought), and took them to the US Post Office to ship home.  Rule No.1 on a long trip: only take that what you absolutely need.  I wa...

I spent the day riding around in Glacier National Park.  Unfortunately, the Go to the Sun Road was closed due to about 80 feet of snow fall - the rain storms that I encountered a few days ago had dumped tons of snow on the pass.  I went up the west side entrance as far as I could, past Lake McDonald, to where the road was blocked off.  I met Patrick and Reg from BC, Canada.  They were biking around Glacier - we compared notes and their trip from BC. I the went around the southern end of the park looking for the east side entrance - a little over 50 miles of an amazing ride.  Entered East Glacier when the ranger informed me that it was another 50 miles to go to St. Mary and the Go to the Sun Road (which was blocked).  It was 2 pm - and was a long ride back to Whitefish - so went down to Two Medicine Lake and Campground.   The ranger said be careful, there were bear everywhere.  I went on the 7 mile journey to Two Medicine from East Glacier....

US 93 then US 54 (scenic route) to Whitefish - 2.5 hours. Took my time this morning.  Went to breakfast at Front & Market.  Went back to motel, packed, and loaded up my bike in rain.  Went to the BMW dealership that sold my brand of helmet (Schuberth).  My visor had been fogging up for days now - and was getting worse.  Gail at the dealership replaced the visor and "pin-lock" that fixed the fogging problem.  Being able to see is a plus if riding a motorcycle.  Ever since before arriving in Leesberg, FL a bug had died in my visor (between the visor and pin-lock anti-fog film.  How it got in there is open to conjecture.  The bug was just below my right eye level.  I called this bug "Wilson" after the the famous basketball in the movie Cast Away staring Tom Hanks.  Wilson the Bug had been with me all the way to Missoula.  When Gail replaced the visor and pin-lock, the bug was finally buried - my little dead friend was gone...

I broke my rule: I traveled from Billings to Missoula, MT on I-90.  The reason: it was cold and rainy - all day.  Starting out at 51 degrees, heading west, going over the Continental Divide at 6700 ft elevation, rain, now 48 degrees.  My head, torso, hands and butt are warm; my legs are freezing.   I had on two t-shirts, my thermal over-shirt, motorcycle jacket, and rain gear.  My helmet visor was fogging up going on a steep decline toward Butte, MT.  Stressful.  Stopped for a horrible lunch, dried out a bit, and headed the last leg to Missoula. Outside of Boseman, MT I stopped for gas and met Paul and Julie.  They were on a Harley Trike towing a huge trailer with gas cans on top.  They were retired, not in the best of shape, and headed to Alaska.  Julie said that she was cold, cold, cold riding on the back of the trike.  I expressed concern about the possibility of snow in the passes toward Alaska.  Checked in at the ...

US 24 to Devils Tower,  US 112 to US 212 to Billings. Woke up on Father's Day to a 51 degree morning with rain and fog.  Rain gear for sure.  I would have to dress for warmth (first time on trip).  Prepared bike: turned on heated hand grips and seat, switch on "Rain Mode" for throttle, suspension, and ABS calibration. There is no easy way out of Deadwood heading west.  I had to decide weather to go southwest toward Lander, Wyoming (costing 2 days of driving through Jackson Hole and up through Yellowstone), or go to Billings, Montana (that would get me to Missoula and Whitefish - a main destination).  Since I was going to Devils Tower in any event (northwest from Deadwood), I decided to go to Billings where I would spend the night. On the way two Devils Tower, which is about 2 hours in the rain) I saw some incredible terrain through the foggy haze.  I passed a small town named Hulett, Wyo - nice town with "saloons" - population about 375 with an e...

Mt Rushmore to Needles State Park to Sturgis to Deadwood.  Riding around the Black Hills on what feels like a cold and rainy Fall day in New England.  I have finally been able to break out my long sleeve shirt and zip up my protective jacket.  I am staying at the mountainesque Whitetail Creek Resort, just outside of Deadwood, with my motorcycle parked no more than 4 feet from my cabin door.  The word "resort" needs to be defined for me. This was a heavy discussion day - my mouth is tired.  At Mt. Rushmore I happened to meet a mother and her two kids that are from Boca Raton, FL.  Renee (mom), Dalton (son), and Savannah (daughter) were incredibly bright.  We talked about philosophy, theology, and Boca for 2 hours.  They are driving around the country in their SUV.  I was at Mt. Rushmore a lot longer than anticipated. I then proceeded to drive the Needles Highway - a $10 admission charge to ride through this section of the Black Hills in or...

Hwy 20 from Sioux City, IA through Valentine, NE (where I originally was planning to stop - but got there at 1 pm CST).  I decided to go to Mt. Rushmore (Keystone, SD) and get ahead of schedule. Headed north and grabbed Hwy 18 through the Rosebud Indian Reservation and the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation - taking in the Badlands. Hwy 18 north from Pine Ridge to BIA-41.  BIA stands for Bureau of Indian Affairs.  That department has been pro-Indian and anti-Indian depending upon the whim of any particular US Administration.  This area of the country was of great interest to me since I studied Indian Law, and was a clerk for the Puyallup Indians, while in law school. US 40 into Keystone, SD.  I am now on Mountain Time (gained an hour daylight driving). Vast changes in scenery throughout the day: flat farmland, to grassy plains, to the "Sandhills" (of significant ecological importance), to vast plains of natural undivided land on the Indian reservations, to ...

There is a special place in my heart for the community of Sioux City, IA.  An eclectic mix of very distinct personalities - where very little changes like in the movie Groundhog Day.  Yet, you are excited to live each day again because you love the people and their world.  Although "they say" they want to get off the merry-go-round, the do not want to be thrown off by centrifugal force. The big thing in Iowa is having coffee at the local Pronto gas station, or anywhere coffee is served, with the same group of people floating in and out of their habitual spot of choice.  These are not prearranged meetings, or small groups of people who decide where they are to meet each day to discuss various topics.  It is a place that organically fits the needs of anyone who cares to join the conversation.  The dialogue is always the same, yet you feel closer to them after every conversation. My conversation in front of Pierce Street Coffeeworks with Noel Avery was the...

Hwy 1 to 13 North to Hwy 20 across the State of Iowa to Sioux City.  Just a mile repeated 300 times - the same scenery the entire way.  Was a grind - but sunny skies the entire way. When I think of discussions that may be of interest, politics would be the first topic you would think of ..., but I do not want to ride all day and then invade a local bar and get into a political discussion.  A bar room brawl would probably ensue.  Of course, I would probably win any fight.  NOT.  My discussions have been about them: how do they like where they live, what do they do for fun, what do they want to do in life.  Not until I reached Iowa, did I have any conversations about politics.  Went to dinner last night in Iowa City with my daughter, her boyfriend and his parents, and Aunt Ginny.  It was great catching up with my daughter Katie about her time teaching in Thailand and her trek in Nepal.  Group conversation would always turn to politics ...

Jefferson Ave out of Springfield turns into Hwy 97.  County roads, crossing the Illinois River (which I mistook as the Mississippi because it was so big.  Went through Carthage and across the great Mississippi River arriving in Fort Madison, IA.  US 218 to Mt Pleasant, IA for lunch before heading out for the remaining 48 miles to Iowa City. This was my one week anniversary of starting the ride.  Tuesday the 5th to Tuesday the 12th of June.  Just short of half way to Vancouver, BC.  I have my routines:  What goes in what pannier, top case, tank bag.  Nightly routine of unpacking, recharging the Sena Bluetooth headset in my helmet, Apple Watch.  My phone is always charged because all day it is hooked into the AUX jack on my bike.  Take a shower, dirty clothes in bag that I will wash along the way.  I sent my Rev'it! Boots back home from the A Loft Hotel in Asheville, NC.  I minimize stuff and actions.  It has become muscl...

The first time on the trip that I decidedly turned westward:  I-64 W from Louisville (to avoid big rain on I-65 W through Indianapolis) to US 45 in Illinois.  Did go through heavy rain through Hoosier National Forest - absolutely beautiful). North on US 45 W that would zigzag west and north through small towns to Effingham, IL (interesting name). US 16 and US 29 to Springfield, IL  Lots of flooded fields lining farm roads. The perpetual overcast made riding cool and nonthreatening. The big development is that I will not be driving on any Interstates as of US 45 W.  There are no more Interstates on my path to Vancouver, BC and then down (via ferry) to Seattle.  There is a line in the movie Doc Hollywood, "Get off the Interstate Ben Stone".  Will watch for farm animals on the road. I was impressed driving into Springfield.  Easy to get around, clean, and well planned with the Statehouse Dome clearly visible.  All things Abraham Lincoln....

A challenging and beautiful ride.  I-65 to US  41W, to US79E to Bowling Green, to Natcher Parkway, to I-65 into Louisville.  What could have been a 2 1/2 ride became closer to 5 hours.  I had set the GPS for scenic ride which took me through some great farmland on one lane hilly roads.  Really beautiful ride.   However, I saw the clouds coming and thought that I had better go fastest route.  Reset my GPS.  Stopped at a Shell station, and it rained hard.  I looked at satellite view of the weather around Louisville - a whole lot of red.  Not good.  Put rain gear on and expected the worst. I had 100 miles to Louisville.  The black cumulus clouds billowing in the distance created a feeling of dread.  The entire sky was dark the whole way up to my destination.  If only I had skipped the back roads - I may have avoided all this.  But the gods were with me - only a short slight rain the whole way up .... 50 miles...

Instead of going to Louisville, KY as planned, hopped on the I-40 and zipped over to Nashville. The ride started out amazingly beautiful with clouds hovering in the mountains.  The cool mist made riding a joy.  Constant curves and tunnels through the mountains.  When I got to Knoxville, TN it became congested and hot/humid.  Nashville freeways are not my idea of fun - felt on edge and dehydrated. Visited my friends Marc-Alan Barnette and Tina who had invited me to spend the night.  Another couple, Tom and Sydney were there and we had a BBQ, played music, and chatted.  Marc & Tina with Dixie Me with the Dog Next Door Woke up this morning at 5:30 CST to roaring thunder, lightening, and tons of rain.  It was wonderful.  It will clear up soon and I will be off for points north - either to Louisville, KY or Bloomington, ID.  I am falling behind on schedule - the only commitment on time is for my visit to my daughter Katie in Iow...

Interstate I-40 to US 19 through Maggie Valley, NC and up to Cherokee. Blue Ridge Parkway on the way back - got lost in heavy rains.  Doubled back to US 19 and I-40. Amazing day of riding and meeting great people.  On the way to Cherokee met Martin and Christina.  Martin is a chef for employees in Athens, GA and he and Christina ride their Ultra-Glide whenever they have an opportunity.  Very nice people.  We talked next to a gas pump for about 45 minutes about kids, rides, food, and our bikes.  They extended an invitation to stay with them whenever in Athens area.  Just one of those great motorcycle meets that remain memorable. Christina & Martin Had lunch at Granny's home cooking restaurant in Cherokee.  Buffet with salad bar, corn bread, and broasted chicken.  Was having fun people watching. On the way back, I decided to take the Blue Ridge Parkway.  I had the best two lane road through the mountains....

US 39 and US 56 from Aiken to Clinton, SC.  A very beautiful ride.  Hopped on I-26 and was blown away riding at 75 mph around mountain curves as soon as I hit North Carolina.  This is what its all about. Something hit me as I was thinking of what Joe and Chris said in Leesberg, FL.  There are many communities in The Villages.  Apparently, if someone from one community finds out that are a resident of another community in The Villages, they get up and walk away.  Inter-Villages discrimination.  I thought how petty and small-minded of those folks who only associate with those from the same village.  The same phenomenon can be said to exist in our own small villages.  There is an order of things and people create their identity based upon petty distinctions.  To feel important, we think of ourselves as a group that is better than others.  If you inhabit the internet communities, you know of what I speak.  Such absurdities are ...

The rain is gone.  I slept 12 hours last night and awoke to rain and a forecast of thunder storms.  I drove 2 hours in the rain (varying intensity).  I ended up loving it - was cooler riding.  Once I got to Georgia the rain stopped.  I took off my rain gear and I was wet from perspiration.  I might as well have not used the gear at all. Highway Scenic Drive Route 19 was amazing through the Ocala National Forest.  I then scooted around Jacksonville, FL.  US 321 and 278 brought me to Aiken, SC where I will be spending the night.  Nothing but blue sky.  Back roads in South Carolina are nice for scenery and a few small towns.  I wondered what people do there so I stopped at a small convenience store/gas station and talked with Vick (a man of Indian descent).  He was bored in the small town which was an hour from any real city.  I got attacked by millions of no-see-ems gathering around to look at my bike. My gas station and...

The coasts of Florida: fast paced traffic, a lot of liberal pockets, development, interstates, people tend not to strike up conversations with strangers, and fewer bugs.  Back roads in central Florida can be very buggy.  Entire front of windshield and fairing black with bugs.  A few on my helmet shield.  Could have made bug soup from water bucket after cleaning.  Yum! I find it interesting how world views can be so different 20 miles in from the coasts.  Why?  Reason is that the coasts are populated with transplants (mostly from New York and New Jersey on the East Coast; from Mid-West on the West Coast).  Florida inland natives can be very conservative. Breakfast at Crackers Restaurant,  Indiantown, FL - locally owned small gathering place of farmers and construction workers.  Man talk mostly about women and business.  Only male customers, the only women is the server - Jess. Some politically incorrect conversatio...

What does the future hold?  There is a part of us that would like to know so that mistakes could be avoided.  In packing my saddlebags I am anticipating the worst, hoping for the best, and pray that I may find happiness in my choices whatever the reality is to be.  Looking to the future usually causes varying degrees of fear; fear triggers caution.  Fear/caution is a protective reflex - but, as with anything, too much fear/caution will get you into as much trouble as acting with reckless abandon.  I fear riding in rain.  I packed my rain gear - check.  Waterproof boots - check.  Tires are good - check.  If it rains, I know what I have to do on the road.  Preparation will, hopefully, reduce fear which will make for a safe ride. I am all packed with electronics, clothes, toiletries, protective clothing, bike cleaning materials, passport, and all required official papers.  So, what is to fear?  Easy question: mostly people (dr...