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Natchez, MS - Riverboat |
Sometimes I get lucky. I had a choice: drive straight home via I-10, stop at Baton Rouge, LA, and plop on my bed through mere exhaustion; or, I could find a town along back roads and take one final stab at a unique experience. I just did not want to go too far out of the way. Thus, Natchez, MS.
Most people, either they never heard of Natchez, or if they had, never thought of visiting. But, I have to tell you, for me it was the best real ending of the tour that I could have imagined. This is not a place for everyone. You have to like a "down home" "river town" with tons of history - families have been there for centuries. The only town unfazed by the Civil War, with antebellum homes, dating back to the early 1800's, and still owned by direct descendants of the original owners. Cotton plantations, attached to the owners of these homes, still in operation. I stayed at one of these homes: Choctaw Hall B&B (circa 1836). Check out: https://www.facebook.com/ChoctawHall/
David Garner, the owner, greeted me in true southern style: coat and tie - forever the southern gentleman - like he probably wore that attire every day of his life. However, in the morning I found him in his kitchen a little out of character:
He told me that we are the last generation who lived life large. Tied to the earth, we took pleasure in one-on-one conversations about life while sitting in kitchens all morning. Taking pleasure in the spirit of place and realizing that was enough to be happy. Yesterday, before I arrived, he had hosted the senior ladies auxiliary who toured his historic home. As he said, they came "sauced" and were so much fun. Pre-civil war artifacts everywhere on the premises: plates, furniture, and memorabilia.
Here is a view of the private entrance into my B&B room:
David also was concerned about the safety of my motorcycle on the street, so he suggested that I park it in a private alcove in front of the Hall. I had to drive the bike over a few curbs, and through a gate, to get it in there:
I then went to eat at Magnolia Grill (fair) along the river, under the hill as they call the area - down by the river. After dinner, I came out to this sight:
Walked a few yards to the oldest bar on the Mississippi and talked with the good ole boys. They lived for the end of the day when they could get together and shoot the sh__ with each other. They were very friendly and accepting folks:
Here is a pano shot from the bar entrance:
Natchez, MS, population of about 15,000, was the capital of the territory, then state, for decades. Founded by the Natchez Indians, it was the beginning of a famous trade route to the north. That trade route still exists as the Natchez-Trace Parkway from Natchez, MS to Nashville, TN. The parkway is famous for its scenery and those who want a blast from the past. FYI - Natchez is older than New Orleans, LA to the south.
Could I live there? If you want calm, tradition, beauty, and a great coffee/breakfast spot (Natchez Coffee Company): yes. But like most small river towns, I am not sure that anyone new is really accepted into the local society (and, to be fair, I am not sure I would accept the local society). It is very slow here. But, one could easily trek to New Orleans and get your ya ya's out.
In the morning, I made the last, and only real slog, ride home. I made one big stop mistake: Destin, FL. What a disappointment. Tons of traffic - and I could not even see the beach through all the hotels, strip malls, and high-end BS. Went to Emeril's restaurant - just fair (really fair) food. Face lifts and a boob jobs city as far as I could see. Talk of who they knew and what they had. I guess I was back into society once again. It made the 9 hour trek back to Boca seem like a forever ordeal.
It is symbolic that I had not encountered rain from just south of Santa Fe, NM (rain and hail) until I reached Ft. Pierce, FL (heavy rain on the Florida Turnpike). The traffic had become unbearable once I hit Florida. Angry drivers who absolutely have no idea where they are going - and they apparently feel like they are going to die if they cannot get just one car length ahead of you.
People say that what I do is dangerous - riding a motorcycle around the country. I say it is more dangerous living in a box navigating the craziness of a society that has very little identity. I know I sound crazy. But, I will truly miss the places I have been this year. Maybe if I lived in those places I may feel the same way as I do in South Florida. Who knows?
I do know that there are good people everywhere.
Maybe if I practiced a little more Buddhist Emptiness - without judgment - I could find my adventure right here in my little box.
Very well articulated Rob are there any songs written about Natchez that you know?
ReplyDeleteBest entry yet! Love the photos of Natchez... But, I agree - if you could let your judgey side go, you just might find that there are indeed decent people everywhere - even in South Florida!
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